Much of Rosler’s work is informed by feminist politics and critical theory. Martha Rosler Reads “Vogue” is a live performance made for Paper Tiger Television, a US–based media collective founded in the early 1980s, whose programmes often featured scholars and artists critiquing the mainstream media. In this work, Rosler flips through the iconic fashion magazine while parodying its high-minded, aspirational style. She poses questions such as ‘What is Vogue?’ and ‘What is fashion?’, responding in turn with phrases like ‘Vogue is glamour, excitement, romance, dreaming . . . and it is sex’. She confronts Vogue’s male-dominated gaze and its fetishisation of the female body in its fashion photography. Finally, she turns her attention to the fashion industry’s reliance on immigrant labour. By showing footage of textile sweatshops, Rosler reveals the harsh realities underpinning Vogue’s glamour-filled pages. The performance exposes fashion’s hegemonic power structures, exploring how gender and class are experienced, understood, and imagined in contemporary consumer culture.
Martha Rosler (b. 1943, United States) works across video, photography, text-based art, performance, critical writing, and installation art to construct incisive social and political analyses of contemporary culture. Imbued with a deadpan wit, her videos explore how socio-economic realities and political ideologies dominate all facets of life.