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Miyake Issey 三宅一生
Fujiwara Dai 藤原大
A-POC Queen A-POC 皇后
designed 1998, made 2003
The A-POC (‘A Piece of Cloth’) series, developed by Japanese designer Miyake Issey in collaboration with Fujiwara Dai, is a novel attempt to balance the opposing ethics of bespoke tailoring and mass production. The work is produced as a single, continuous tube of jersey fabric by industrial weaving or knitting machines. The seams of finished items (including shirts, trousers, skirts, and stockings) are woven as a repeating pattern directly into the fabric; these can be cut out, ready to wear, from the tube. Since the cut edges will not fray, the user can customise the shape and length of garments—a more accessible technique for bespoke clothing than the typical labour- and expertise-intensive methods of constructing garments from pieced fabric. The density of the pattern of items woven into the textile tube also considerably reduces the amount of resulting waste.
For Miyake, long recognised for his inventive use of materials and fabrication technologies in his haute-couture collections, A-POC marked a transition to an even more experimental, technologically driven approach to design that could operate outside the rapid seasonal pace of high fashion. It also represents the designer’s concern with the wasteful practices of the fashion industry, an attitude that has underpinned several of his most successful projects. Having left the running of his fashion label to a creative director, Miyake has continued to work on applying innovative textile processes to clothing, as well as other fields like furniture and lighting.
For Miyake, long recognised for his inventive use of materials and fabrication technologies in his haute-couture collections, A-POC marked a transition to an even more experimental, technologically driven approach to design that could operate outside the rapid seasonal pace of high fashion. It also represents the designer’s concern with the wasteful practices of the fashion industry, an attitude that has underpinned several of his most successful projects. Having left the running of his fashion label to a creative director, Miyake has continued to work on applying innovative textile processes to clothing, as well as other fields like furniture and lighting.
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